Showing posts with label Burr Trail. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Burr Trail. Show all posts

Monday, December 1, 2014

Capitol Reef National Park, Utah - Hiking

Thanksgiving  is a great time for a camping trip to southern Utah.  While most people indulge in endless turkey and desserts for the holiday, a surprisingly large number of people take advantage of the snow-free conditions and relatively mild temperatures for some late season camping and hiking without the crowds.  I was fortunate enough to have two friends interested in a few hikes and some frosty camping fun for the four day weekend.  We headed south to Capitol Reef National Park on Thursday morning to begin the adventure.

The happiest turkeys I've seen on Thanksgiving Day

Katy in Capitol Reef

A lesson learned.  Do not wait until the last minute or the last gas station to buy firewood for a winter camping trip.  Torrey, just outside of Capitol Reef, was a ghost town.  We decided to check out the main campground in the park and were fortunate enough to find a stack of  firewood that would last us for a few days.  With the wood in tow, we headed south along the Bullfrog Notom Road to our intended primitive campsite called Cedar Mesa.  Much to our surprise, all of the sites were full!  We made a new plan to continue south to the Burr Trail switchbacks and hopefully find a place to camp off of the Burr Trail.  As it was getting dark, we found a great site and quickly set up camp.  A wonderful fire kept us warm as we made our Thanksgiving dinner.

Camping near the Burr Trail

Sunset on Thanksgiving

Cheers!

Friends around my tent

John warming up in the morning


The first night was colder than I expected and I was happy that I had my -15 degree sleeping bag.  After warming up with a morning fire, we headed to Upper Muley Twist Canyon in Capitol Reef for a day of hiking.  We were able to drive the first three miles into the canyon to the Strike Valley overlook parking  without much difficulty.  We did the quick hike to Strike Valley Overlook before beginning our hike through Upper Muley Twist Canyon.

Katy and John at Strike Valley Overlook

Upper Muley can be done as a loop hike of about 9 miles, going up the canyon and then on to the eastern ridge to return south before rejoining the main canyon wash.  With limited daylight hours and lots of picture taking, we decided to hike out-and-back up the main canyon so we could plan our return before it got dark.  The weather and the canyon scenery were spectacular.  There were a few arches, some interesting geology, and a great mix of colors throughout the canyon.  Our turn around spot was a spectacular narrow section of the canyon that can be bypassed along the rim or explored if no water is present.

Saddle Arch

Upper Muley Twist Canyon

Narrows of Upper Muley

Upper Muley Twist Canyon

It was another frosty night in the tent, but the rain fly and some extra clothes made it much more comfortable.  We decided to make the relatively long drive back to the main part of Capitol Reef, near Fruita, to hike the Navajo Knobs trail.  I wanted to do this hike last year, but a rockslide had closed the trail for several months.  It was another gorgeous, sunny day and the hike was an excellent choice with some of the best views of Capitol Reef of any trail in the park.

Pectols Pyramid

View of Fruita from above

John enjoying the views

Navajo Knobs Trail

Navajo Knobs Trail

Navajo Knobs Trail


Thank you, Katy and John, for being such great camping and hiking buddies for the Thanksgiving holiday.  The telescope, stargazing, wine, enormous fire, and great company made the frosty camping as much fun as the hiking!

Thanksgiving with Katy and John

Wednesday, May 23, 2012

Southern Utah - 2012 Annual Eclipse

On May 20th, an annular solar eclipse was visible across parts of the American Southwest.  An annular eclipse occurs when the moon passes directly in front of the sun, but at a point in the moon's orbit when it is farthest away from the Earth.  Because of the perceived size of the moon relative to the sun, the moon doesn't completely obscure the sun and a ring of the solar disc is still visible around the edge of the moon.  Had the moon been closer to the Earth, a total solar eclipse would have occurred.

Maximum eclipse at Upper Calf Creek near Escalante, UT.  My solar glasses over the lens of my Cannon Powershot  pocket camera worked great!

Moments before maximum annular eclipse - Upper Calf Creek near Escalante, UT 

My friend Paul had been wanting to visit Utah to do some hiking in canyon country and we decided this past weekend would be a perfect weekend for him to visit, check out some of the best locations in southern Utah, and view the complete annular eclipse.

Our first destination was Coral Pink Sand Dunes State Park, near the town of Kanab, in far southern Utah.  We arrived at the dunes late in the afternoon and enjoyed walking around in the late afternoon sunlight.  The winds were strong and the dunes were in action as sand blew up over the crests and fell like rain on the leeward side of the dunes.  I have been to several sand dune locations and while the dunes weren't the largest I have seen, they were probably the prettiest.  The pink sand in the evening light was stunning and the surrounding mountains made for some beautiful backdrops.  The blowing sand, while beautiful, was unkind to my old camera.  An unexpected stop to purchase a new pocket camera was our next destination.

Coral Pink Sand Dunes

Coral Pink Sand Dunes at sunset

Coral Pink Sand Dunes

Coral Pink Sand Dunes

We decided to spend Friday at Bryce Canyon National Park where Paul was a guide about 15 years ago.  We drove through Zion National Park for some quick pictures and scenic drive before heading  north and east to Bryce Canyon.  The weather changed dramatically between Zion and Bryce and by the time we arrived at the Fairyland Loop trail it was looking quite stormy.  Despite the looming rain clouds, we decided to descend into Bryce and were battered by some strong winds, rain, and snow pellets for about an hour before the weather started to clear.  I have done most of the main hikes in Bryce, but this was my first time on the Fairyland Loop trail because it's the easiest one to miss.  The trail head is technically outside the fee zone of the national park, so it isn't as well marked as the other viewpoints and trails within the main portion of the park.  It was nice to get a different perspective and enjoy some views of the canyon that I haven't seen before.

 Zion National Park

 A stormy hike into Bryce Canyon

Bryce Canyon from Fairyland Loop trail

 Clear skies at the end of our hike

We camped in Escalante Petrified Forest State Park on Friday night, allowing us easy access to Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument on Saturday and Sunday.  We spent Saturday exploring some locations off Hole-in-the-Rock Road, a 62 mile rough dirt road running south from the town of Escalante to Lake Powell in extreme southern Utah.  Seemingly endless canyons cut down toward the east from the road, eventually emptying into the Escalante River.  Some of these canyons are quite popular, such as Coyote Gulch, while other canyons offer varying levels of canyoneering adventure.  We decided to hike a loop through two of the more spectacular slot canyons, Spooky and Peek-a-boo, near the Dry Fork trail head area of Hole-in-the-Rock.  Spooky was definitely the narrowest slot canyon I have been through, with a few spots being only 1 foot wide.  Even with my pack off and walking sideways, I manage to scrape a little skin off my knees and elbows.  Aside from being narrow, Spooky was not particularly difficult to navigate and just a few spots require some climbing maneuvers. Peek-a-boo was more open but had some beautiful rock features within the slots.  The exit out of Peek-a-boo was step, but not as difficult as I had expected.  The most difficult part of the loop was the cross country section between the two canyons - the trail was a little diffuse.

 Ready to climb into Spooky Canyon

Spooky Canyon

Paul in Spooky Canyon

A particularly narrow spot in Spooky Canyon

 Spooky Canyon

We continued down Hole-in-the-Rock road and made it as far as Dance Hall Rock, a beautiful slickrock amphitheater that the Mormon pioneers used for music and dancing.  We spent some time enjoying the vistas at Dance Hall Rock before heading back to Escalante.  We watched the sun set from a viewpoint along Highway 12 and then headed back to Escalante Petrified Forest State Park for our second night of camping in the area.

Sunday was eclipse day and our plan was to head east on the Burr Trail to Capitol Reef National Park, hike Upper Muley Twist Canyon, and watch the eclipse from the top of the Burr Trail switchbacks that descend into Strike Valley of Capitol Reef.  The drive along the Burr Trail is spectacular between the town of Boulder and Capitol Reef National Park and we made a few stops along the way to enjoy the views and check out some features near the road.  When we arrived at the top of the switchbacks, we were disappointed to see that the western horizon was not as flat and visible as it needed to be to watch the eclipse.  Here in Utah, max eclipse occurred about an hour before sunset so a clear view of the western horizon was critical.  Paul wanted to watch the eclipse from Strike Valley overlook, but neither of us were sure the view would be any better.  It was getting later in the afternoon so we decided to check it out by driving the rough rough beyond the main trail head of Upper Muley canyon to the parking area just below Strike Valley overlook.  The view of Strike Valley was spectacular and the entire waterpocket fold was visible stretching north and south from our vantage point, but the western horizon was not any more visible than at the Burr Trail switchbacks.  We made a last minute decision to head back to Escalante and view the eclipse above the canyons of Calf Creek.  We made it to the trail head of Upper Creek Falls and walked along the rim of the canyon until we found a perfect view to the west, overlooking the canyons below.

Strike Valley

Waterpocket fold of Capitol Reef

Strike Valley Overlook

Within an hour of our arrival at Calf Creek, the eclipse began with a chunk of the lower right portion of the sun obscured by the moon.  The intensity of the sun dropped dramatically and the light felt more like winter sunlight or the final minutes of a sunset as the moon covered over 90% of the sun.  We watched the eclipse with special solar viewing glasses, and observed the changing patterns of light moving across the canyons below us.  I was surprised that the ring of light was nearly uniform despite our location being a bit north of the main eclipse path.  It was also surprising how light it remained with so little of the sun showing, although the few minutes of maximum eclipse were eerily dim and the temperature drop was quite noticeable.  The final treat was watching a still partially eclipsed sun set over the western horizon.  Our decision to watch the eclipse from Calf Creek was fantastic and the skies remained perfectly clear for the entire event.

Paul with his eclipse glasses
Half hour into the eclipse at Upper Calf Creek

About one hour into the eclipse

 Maximum annular eclipse at Upper Calf Creek

Before heading back to Salt Lake on Monday, we did a short hike in Capitol Reef National Park.  The Chimney Rock loop is a little outside the main portion of the park, but the views were some of the best that I have seen as the trail climbed to the top of a mesa and around some of the red rock canyons draining into the Fremont River.

Capitol Reef National Park

Capitol Reef National Park

Monday, April 4, 2011

The Gulch - Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument - Backpacking

The Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument was created in 1996 when President Bill Clinton used the Antiquities Act of 1906 to protect 1.9 million acres of land in south-central Utah. Locals in the area were furious at this "federal land grab" and the land and it's status as a national monument remain controversial in Utah to this day. For recreational enthusiasts, the designation as a national monument has protected a vast area of redrock desert and beautiful canyons in Southern Utah that is perfect for hiking, backpacking, and canyoneering. The towns of Escalante and Boulder have, no doubt, also benefited from tourist dollars as people come to the area to explore.


Typical scene in the Escalante area

Zach suggested an early Spring backpacking trip in Escalante to take advantage of the warmer weather. We left Salt Lake early Friday morning and headed south past Capitol Reef National Park until we reached the town of Boulder. From there we drove along the Burr Trail to The Gulch trailhead. By noon we were already on our way down The Gulch heading towards the Escalante River.


Backpacking down The Gulch

The Gulch

The round-trip distance from The Gulch trailhead to the Escalante River is about 26 miles. We decided to camp about 7 miles down The Gulch on Friday to take advantage of a great camping spot and spent some time relaxing by the river and exploring the canyon.


Epic goes to Escalante - good beer and great scenery

Zach's tent

Some petroglyphs near our camping spot

Great spot to relax along The Gulch

Saturday was our long day of hiking as we covered about 12 miles down to the Escalante River and then back to our camping spot. Most of the hike was through ankle deep to knee deep water as we passed through beautiful narrows, slot canyons, gorgeous alcoves, and some annoying areas of thick brush to bushwhack through.


The start of the narrows section of The Gulch

Narrows of The Gulch

Zach on the rim of The Gulch

Slot canyon in The Gulch - needed to be bypassed on the rim

Slot canyon in The Gulch

On the rim of The Gulch

A large alcove in The Gulch

Eventually we reached our destination - the Escalante River. As The Gulch emptied into the larger Escalante River, it was interesting to watch the two flow side-by-side instead of immediately mixing together. We spent some time enjoying the views and the warm sunshine before turning around and heading back to our camping spot for the second night.


The Gulch meets the Escalante River

Standing in the Escalante River

Zach in the Escalante River

The Gulch meets the Escalante River

Back up on the rim of The Gulch

As we returned to our camping spot for the second night, we passed some great rock formations and some pretty sand dunes. After a long day of hiking we enjoyed some more relaxation time and good beer.


Interesting rock formations on the rim of The Gulch

Sand dunes

The third day of backpacking was a little more challenging as the weather become colder and windier and the warm weather of the previous few days generated enough snow melt to raise the level of the water in The Gulch. After trudging through water sometimes almost waist deep, we were both happy to be back to the trailhead by early afternoon. We spent the afternoon driving along the spectacular Burr Trail into Capitol Reef National Park before heading back to snowy Salt Lake.