Escalante River, Utah - Backpacking

Grant and I spent the past weekend backpacking and hiking in Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument near the towns of Boulder and Escalante in southern Utah.  Leaving on Friday and returning on Monday morning gave us two full days to do a quick overnight backpacking trip and also do some day hiking around Highway 12 and the Burr Trail.

Grant hiking through a slot canyon

On Saturday morning we drove to the Escalante River trailhead at the bridge where Highway 12 crosses the river.  The one-way distance to the other trailhead in Escalante is about 15 miles so we decided to hike a little more than halfway on Saturday and finish the hike out on Sunday in Escalante.

Starting the hike

Grant at one of the many river crossings

The trail followed the Escalante River for the majority of the hike and frequently crossed the river from one river bank to the other.  There were several points where the main trail disappeared or branched into multiple smaller trails, but it's difficult to get lost because the canyon confines you to the main Escalante riverbed throughout the hike.  There were times when it was easier to walk through the river because the trail disappeared or the bushwhacking became too frustrating.  The water was between ankle and knee deep throughout the canyon.

 Grant at Escalante Natural Bridge

Near Skyline Arch

Walking up the Escalante River

Grant in the Escalante River

We ended up hiking about 12 miles the first day as we struggled for the last few miles to find a good camp spot for the night.  There was no shortage of great spots near the Escalante River trailhead but the canyon narrowed as we approached Escalante and so did the options.  We ended up finding an fantastic sandy spot and enjoyed the rest of the evening relaxing by the river.

Hiking through the river

Some nice desert varnish

Fussing with the tent

Sunset at our camping spot

The next morning we hiked the last few miles to the town of Escalante.  We didn't really have a plan for getting back to the car and no one seemed willing to pick up a couple of weary backpackers, so we ended up getting a shuttle ride from Excursions of Escalante.

Hiking out of the canyon to Escalante

Grant leaping across the Escalante

Once back at the car, we had plenty of time to do a day hike to Upper Calf Creek Falls.  Lower Calf Creek Falls is a very popular hike in this area, but  fewer people venture to the upper falls making it an excellent destination to enjoy a little desert solitude and some steep downhill and uphill climbing.

 The top of Upper Calf Creek Falls

 Enjoying some desert solitude

The top of Upper Calf Creek Falls

We hike to the bottom of the falls for some more spectacular views.  Upper Calf Creek Falls definitely ranks high on my list of favorite day hikes in Utah.

 Upper Calf Creek Falls

 Upper Calf Creek Falls

Upper Calf Creek Falls

We still had some time after our hike to Upper Calf Creek falls to drive along the Burr Trail and enjoy the spectacular views.  We made a stop at a small slot canyon along the road and drove to the top of the Burr Trail switchbacks to get a view into Capitol Reef National Park.  At the end of the day we had a great dinner at the beautiful Hell's Backbone Grill in Boulder, an excellent recommendation by Grant.

Small slot canyon along the Burr Trail

Small slot canyon along the Burr Trail

Along the Burr Trail

Grant looking into Capitol Reef NP

Sunset over Grand Staircase-Escalante

Grant taking advantage of the good lighting

We camped at the Calf Creek Campground on Sunday night to make for an easy departure on Monday morning.  As we drove home over Boulder Mountain, the sun rose and illuminated Capitol Reef National Park below us.

Sunrise from Boulder Mountain

Capitol Reef National Park, Utah - Burro Wash - Hiking

Five months ago I was sitting at the top of Halls Creek Overlook in Capitol Reef National Park, drenched in sweat and hiding from the scorching sun in what little shade I could find.  I was anxiously waiting for Hunter and Col to finish the grueling climb out of the canyon so we could enjoy some clean water, air conditioning, and possibly a margarita! (There are no margaritas to be found near Capitol Reef).  The backpacking trip to Halls Creek Narrows was incredible, but possibly the hottest three days I have ever endured.

This past week I woke up in Capitol Reef National Park with frost in my tent, anxiously waiting for the low winter sun to rise above the ridge and provide some warmth.

Sunrise in Fruita - Capitol Reef

Grant and I headed down to Capitol Reef on Tuesday night and decided to camp in the main campground in Fruita because the place was nearly deserted.  Car camping is fantastic when there are no other people around because it means heavy (real) food and beer are possible.  The main campground, located in the historic town of Fruita, is situated amongst the apple trees planted by Mormon pioneers and the towering red rock cliffs of Capitol Reef.  It's a spectacular place that is best enjoyed without the swarms of people that fill the campground during the summer.

The view near Fruita - Capitol Reef National Park

We left camp and headed down the Bullfrog-Notom Road that parallels the waterpocket fold of Capitol Reef for 8 miles to reach our main goal for the trip - Burro Wash.  The views of the distant,  snow-covered Henry Mountains were spectacular against the red rock desert of Capitol Reef.

The Henry Mountains

Burro Wash crosses the Bullfrog-Notom Road as a broad, sandy, dry wash (except during floods) and it doesn't look particularly exciting.  A couple of miles from the road, however, the wash cuts through the waterpocket fold in a series of narrow slots canyons providing one of the best adventures in the park.  Burro Wash is a technical route requiring full canyoneering gear if one travels from the waterpocket fold eastward down the entire length of the canyon.  Hiking up the canyon from Bullfrog-Notom road to the large, impassable pouroff is non-technical route.  An extra pair of shoes would have been handy to hike through some of the pools that were present.

Exploring a large pothole

 Grant climbing over a narrows section

Grant trying to avoid wet feet

The canyon really narrowed up in a few spots a few miles from the trailhead.  Some chokestones, cold water pools, and some very narrow slots made for an exciting and challenging hike.

 Getting narrow

Climbing towards the light

 Grant plotting his fancy maneuver over a pool

Fancy maneuver fail

The narrows opened up about 4 miles from the trailhead and we enjoyed the warm sunshine for a bit before heading back down the canyon.  Some large boulders near the trailhead made for some fun photos before we headed back to the main section of the park.

Near the trailhead for Burro Wash

Grant is King of Burro Wash

We took some time to explore a few of the more popular sights in Capitol Reef, including the Fremont River Waterfall, the Grand Wash, The Fremont petroglyph panels, and the scenic drive.  I've lost count of how many times I have visited this national park, but every trip has offered a new adventure along with the peaceful solitude that is more difficult to find in some of Utah's other parks.

Fremont River Waterfall

Grand Wash

Fremont Petroglyph Panel

Along the Scenic Drive

Scenic Drive

This past week was Thanksgiving and it has become a tradition for me to spend the holiday in beautiful  places with awesome people since I don't get to spend the holiday at home with my family.  I'm thankful that I live in such an incredibly beautiful place but even more thankful for the people who have spent the holiday with me over the past several years.  Robert, Brandon, Sheldon, Tim plus the entire winter population of Denali, Keith, Melissa, Ryan .. and now Grant.  Thank you!!

Capitol Reef National Park and Goblin Valley State Park, Utah - Hiking

It was another Thanksgiving holiday to be thankful for. After spending a great day with Jake and his family feasting on tofurkey and playing Phase10 (the best game ever), Brandon and I headed out for some Thanksgiving adventure in the canyons of southern Utah's San Rafael Swell. So far this year, my trips with Brandon have included -10 degree temperatures, rock slides, flash floods, hail, and other similar weather surprises. I'm thankful to report that our Thanksgiving adventure had nearly perfect weather.

We arrived in Capitol Reef Friday morning and set out on the Bullfrog-Notom road to Cedar Mesa campground, the primitive camping area that we became flood refugees at during this year's Memorial Day adventure. We quickly set up camp (no time to waste during the short days of winter) and traveled back up the dirt road a few mile for our first adventure of the trip.

We spent several hours hiking up Sheets Gulch slot canyon, a non-technical canyon cutting into the reef. Slot canyons are a ton of fun if proper respect is given to the canyon and the weather. Many slot canyons require advanced canyoneering skills (which I currently lack), but many others are easy to navigate with some basic gear. Slot canyons have stretches of "narrows" where you have to squeeze yourself through tight canyon walls sculpted and carved out by violent flash floods. Sheets Gulch had a few stretches of narrows and all were easy to navigate.


Brandon crawling into one of the narrows in Sheets Gulch

Beautiful canyon walls

Brandon in Sheets Gulch

Me above one of the narrows in Sheets Gulch

The beginning of Sheets Gulch

It was a cold night in Capitol Reef, but we bought plenty of firewood in Loa and I spent several hours sitting (very) close to the fire and enjoying the peaceful quiet of the desert. The nearly-full moon had a brilliant halo around it for a while, but the thin clouds blocked most of the stars from giving us the nighttime show that Capitol Reef is famous for.

I spent some time Saturday morning walking around at camp site at Cedar Mesa. It was a very different experience from six months ago when muddy flood water was flowing through the washes. Things seemed much more peaceful and relaxed. Winter and summer have the same stillness in the desert.


Capitol Reef

Me and a tree friend

Capitol Reef

On our way to Goblin Valley Saturday afternoon we stopped in Hanksville to meet up with my friend Sheldon. It was definitely a highlight of the trip, and he was awesome enough to join us in Goblin Valley for a few hours later that night.


Meeting up with Sheldon at Hollow Mountain

Goblin Valley is the best outdoor playground in Utah. It is also a very nice and convenient place to camp for further exploration of the San Rafael Swell. Brandon and I spent Saturday afternoon enjoying the crazy rock formations in Goblin Valley before cooking dinner and enjoying another evening by the camp fire with Sheldon.


Me in Goblin Valley

Goblin Valley

Goblin Valley

Me in Goblin Valley

Goblin Valley and the San Rafael Swell

On Sunday, Brandon and I did another slot canyon before heading back to Salt Lake. Crack Canyon is located near Goblin Valley and is another non-technical slot canyon that is a ton of fun. The weather was absolutely perfect for late November, and the scenery was fantastic.


Sunrise in Goblin Valley

Climbing through Crack Canyon

Brandon in Crack Canyon

Brandon in Crack Canyon

Crack Canyon