Swan Valley, Idaho - Total Solar Eclipse

I'd known for years that a total solar eclipse would cross the United States from Oregon to South Carolina on August 21, 2017.  I began planning a trip and looking into camping and hotel options within the path of totality last November.  Thinking that would be plenty of time to book a convenient trip, I was surprised to discover that people had already made their travel arrangements much sooner than me.  Already, nearly a year out from the eclipse, camping and hotel options were limited, and expensive.  Six months before the eclipse, camping reservations became available for National Forest Service sites.  I was able to reserve a site at the Falls Campground in Swan Valley, Idaho, a place I'd camp previously for trips to the Tetons and Idaho Falls.

Camping at the Falls Campground near Swan Valley

As the date of the eclipse approached, I began to worry.  The weather forecast was looking cloudy.  Dire warnings about traffic jams, empty grocery stores, and sold out services such as gasoline filled the news.  Despite the concerns, Jacob and I left Salt Lake City on Saturday morning with enough water and food to get us through any emergency.  Highways signs warned of potential traffic chaos, but the miles kept ticking by and traffic continued to flow smoothly.  We passed through Pocatello and Idaho Falls without any trouble, and arrived in Swan Valley without a single delay. We set up camp and enjoyed a beautiful evening, relieved that the drive had gone so well.

Setting up camp at the Falls Campground in Swan Valley

Lunar themed wine for dinner

Sunday was a day of waiting.  Shawn arrived from Salt Lake City on Sunday morning and experienced no traffic problems, either.  We swam in the Snake River and scoped out our eclipse viewing site at Fall Creek Falls.  I napped in my hammock and fretted about clouds.  I could not wait for Monday to arrive!

Fall Creek Falls - our selected eclipse viewing site

I woke up several times on Sunday night, looking at the sky and waiting for the stars to disappear behind a blanket of clouds that I was certain would ruin the eclipse. When I awoke on Monday morning, the band of clouds that I was worried about had already passed, sliding south into the distance and leaving a crystal clear sky behind.  After breakfast, we made our way to the waterfall to watch the show.  A small crowd had gathered, and the mood was very festive.  Someone had crystals laid out on the blanket, presumably to catch the energies of the eclipse.

Eclipse viewing at Fall Creek Falls, Swan Valley, ID

The eclipse begins

The change in light was very subtle for most of the eclipse.  We cracked open a bottle of 2011 Deschutes Abyss to welcome the darkness.  It wasn't until a few minutes before totality that things got really interesting.  The sunlight felt filtered and weak, and it became noticeably cooler.  Shadow bands began to race across the ground, visible on the patches of white sand surrounding our viewing site.

Jacob watching the eclipse

Approaching totality

Darkening sky to our north and west

Welcoming the umbra with an Abyss

Moment before totality

Moments before totality, the daylight began to dim dramatically.  It was like someone was turning a dimmer switch in the sky.  Totality arrived, and it was one of the most memorable and stunning sights I have ever seen.

Total solar eclipse - Swan Valley, ID

Total solar eclipse - Swan Valley, ID

The Snake River and Swan Valley, ID during totality

End of totality

Suddenly, a flash of light peeked out from behind the moon.  It felt too soon for the sun to reappear, as if only a few seconds had passed since totality began.  But as the surrounding landscape lit back up, it was clear that our two minutes of magic were over.  We celebrated the return of light with champagne, and a swim in the creek above the waterfalls.  Everyone jumped in their cars and headed home, while we stayed behind for another night to relax, celebrate, and swim in the Snake River one last time.  Some traffic chaos did occur on Monday afternoon, but our drive home on Tuesday was smooth as could be.

Celebrating the eclipse and return of the sun

Champagne to celebrate the eclipse

Celebrating the eclipse in Fall Creek

Shawn in Fall Creek

Eclipse dinner and lunar themed wine

City of Rocks National Reserve, Idaho - Day Trip

Roger and I spent my birthday weekend in Idaho exploring City of Rocks National Reserve.  The Reserve is located northwest of the Great Salt Lake, near the town of Almo, in south central Idaho.  The drive is just under 3 hours from Salt Lake City.  City of Rocks is best known as a rock climbing destination with numerous granite formations throughout the Reserve, but it also has a rich history as being a landmark for emigrants headed to California along the California Trail in the 1800s.

Entering the Reserve

City of Rocks National Reserve

We spent the day driving a loop through the Reserve and along its western boundary, stopping for photos and short walks along the way.  The road followed the original California Trail after entering the park and passed several major landmarks including the famous Register Rock.  At the Twin Sisters rock formation, we stopped to enjoy the quiet solitude of a late autumn day at one of the many beautiful camp sites scattered throughout the Reserve.

Register Rock where emigrants left their names

The Twin Sisters - a prominent landmark for emigrants on the California Trail

After briefly leaving the park and reentering farther north, we passed through Emery Canyon and many of the famous rock climbing areas along the way.  The Bread Loaves and Bath Rock were interesting sites, and a fresh coat of snow near the pass made for some scenic views.  We stopped and explored the area around Window Arch, one of the most beautiful areas of the Reserve, before completing the loop back at Register Rock.

Roger at Window Arch

 Near Window Arch

Enjoying the scenery around Window Arch

We stopped again at Treasure Rock before leaving the park to enjoy one of the best views we had seen along the loop.  The sun was lower in the sky and the granite formations in the valley below looked even more stunning.  After exiting the park, we headed to Lava Hot Springs to spend Sunday relaxing in the thermal pools.

View from Treasure Rock

Horseshoe Lake - Challis National Forest, Idaho - Backpacking

Backpacker Magazine published a "Rip and Go" article in their September issue about Loon Creek and Horseshoe Lake in central Idaho. The article caught Jake's attention (probably because of the pre-selected food menu that came along with the complete how-to guide for this hike) and he decided we should do the trip. Despite my constant efforts to drag people across the deserts of Southern Utah, I occasionally give in to these green alpine hikes because they are always better than the other option - no backpacking trip at all. I enjoy exploring new places and since none of my previous outdoor adventures had taken me to Idaho, I agreed it would be a perfect trip for Labor Day weekend.

We left Salt Lake Friday afternoon and headed to a town called Stanley where we planned to camp for the night. The drive was about 6 hours and we passed through some very nice towns as we approached Stanley. Not the typical small podunk towns scattered throughout Idaho - these were high class, high end resort towns in the Sun Valley area. It was immediately decided that this place was worth additional trips to check out the towns. We camped overnight in a developed campground just south of Stanley and awoke the next morning to find ourselves surround by gorgeous jagged mountains (the Sawtooth Range) and Salmon River flowing through the valley.


The Sawtooth Range near Stanley, ID

Taking down the tent in the morning

The Sawtooth Range and the Salmon River

We made a brief stop in Stanley to see the town and get some coffee before making our way to the trailhead. The town had some amazing views of the Salmon River and Sawtooth Range, and seemed to be filled with cabins and homes catering to wealthy people on fishing vacations. I bet it absolutely sucks there in the winter, but it certainly looked like a gorgeous place to spend the summer. The road to the trailhead was rough, winding, and steep. By the time we made it to the ranger station where the trail started it was already early afternoon.


Jake in Stanley, ID

The Salmon River

Ready to start the hike

The hike followed Loon Creek for about 9 miles up to Horseshoe Lake. Several river crossings added to the adventure, and a hot spring along Loon Creek made for a good rest stop. The hot spring was a bit on the shallow side, and not extremely hot. I tried to love it, but it was just OK.


The first river crossing

Trying to love the hot spring

Taking a break

Arriving at Horseshoe Lake at sunset

We spent Saturday night and all of Sunday at Horseshoe Lake. We decided to hang around the lake and relax instead of exploring any farther because the weather seemed a little stormy on Sunday afternoon. It got fairly cold (a hint of winter in the air at 8,000 feet!) but there were just a few passing showers at night. It was decided that Jake and I have very limited knowledge of card games, and Jake's whiskey wasn't the best I've ever had.


Horseshoe Lake

Horseshoe Lake

Happy tent near Horseshoe Lake

Horseshoe Lake

Jake makes sure the bears don't come looking for dinner

We headed back to the trailhead Monday morning for the journey back to Salt Lake. Between the hiking and the driving, it was a very long day, but very much worth it.


Jake is a big fan of this picture

End of the hike

Heading back to Salt Lake

Lava Hot Springs, Idaho - Hot Springs

I spent the 4th of July weekend with Felipe and Berta in Lava Hot Springs, ID. We stayed at Danny and Dave's house in Lava - friends of Felipe.