Showing posts with label Mojave Desert. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Mojave Desert. Show all posts

Tuesday, January 21, 2014

Red Cliffs Desert Reserve, Yant Flat, and Mojave Desert Joshua Tree Road, Utah - Hiking

The frigid, smoggy inversion that plagues the Salt Lake Valley each winter has been in full force for the past few weeks.  Without any storms to clear the stagnant air, the city has been suffering from pollution and cold temperatures. Meanwhile, the higher elevations and the deserts of southern Utah have enjoyed plentiful sunshine and relatively mild temperatures.  With a three-day holiday weekend for Martin Luther King Jr. Day, Roger and I decided to head south to take advantage of the unusually warm January weather and give our lungs a break from the polluted air up north.

Camping at Red Cliffs Recreation Area Campground

Red Cliffs Recreation Area

Stealing a weekend from winter!

We decided to camp at Red Cliffs Recreation Area, just north of the small town of Leeds, UT, to give us access to some of the many trails within Red Cliffs Desert Reserve.  Also,  I have camped at nearby Snow Canyon State Park many times so this gave us an opportunity to try something new.  We arrived at the campground on Friday night and found it busier than expected.  Some of the sites were under construction but we were able to find a nice, open site to set up camp and cook dinner before heading off to bed.

Quail Creek passes through Red Cliffs Recreation Area campground - an oasis in the summer!


The clear skies made for a frosty morning so we waited in the tent until the sun began to warm the air.  We enjoyed the clear blue skies and glowing red rocks that surrounded our campsite as we ate our breakfast and prepared for the day.  We drove back through the town of Leeds and on to Silver Reef Road before making our way along the base of the Pine Valley Mountains, following a bumpy but passable Forest Service dirt road.  Our destination was Yant Flant and the Candy Cliffs, colorful sandstone formations that drop off from Yant Flat to the surrounding desert below.  We found the trail leading to the cliffs and walked across Yant Flant for a mile and a half, enjoying the warm sunshine, desert scenery, and the satisfying feeling of stealing another day from winter.

Walking across Yant Flat

Utah agave on Yant Flat

We arrived at the cliffs and spent a few hours walking around the surreal sandstone landscapes.  Some of the features reminded me of the famous "Wave" in Arizona, with more muted but equally beautiful colors.  The views into Red Cliffs Desert Reserve were spectacular and we could see the stone towers of Zion along the eastern horizon.  We had the entire place to ourselves and the quiet solitude made our visit even more enjoyable.  When we were done wandering and photographing, we hiked back to the car and continued along the dirt road towards St. George, enduring some particularly bumpy and muddy patches along the way.

Roger at Yant Flat

Yant Flat and Cottonwood Canyon

Yant Flat

 Yant Flat beer

 Roger at Yant Flat

 Yant Flat

Yant Flat

Yant Flat

Later in the day, we met up with Hunter, Col and their dog Kendall to do a loop hike from the Chuckawalla trail head. We spent a few hours hiking around the red rocks and enjoying the views above Snow Canyon Parkway.

Hunter and Roger

 Kisses from Kendall

Col

Small arch along the trail

On Sunday morning, Roger and I hiked a portion of the Red Reef Trail from the Red Cliffs Recreation Area Campground to some small waterfalls a couple of miles from the trail head.  These waterfalls and pools of water are popular swimming areas during the warmer months, but we had most of the place to ourselves for the entire morning.

Red Reef Trail

Red Reef Trail

Red Reef Trail

Later on Sunday, Hunter and Col offered to take us for ride in their new Jeep along Old Highway 91.  We drove through some beautiful Joshua Tree forests on the Mojave Desert Joshua Tree Road Scenic Backway and made frequent stops to walk through and photograph the beautiful desert trees.  After a quick stop in Beaver Dam, AZ to purchase lottery tickets (I didn't win), we met up with Col's parents in Mesquite, NV for some Bingo and casino-people watching.  A big thanks to Hunter and Col for such a fun day and thanks to Roger for a great weekend of escaping the inversion in southern Utah!

Mojave Desert Joshua Tree Road Scenic Backway

Mojave Desert Joshua Tree Road Scenic Backway

Barrel cactus - Mojave Desert Joshua Tree Road Scenic Backway

Mojave Desert Joshua Tree Road Scenic Backway

Mojave Desert Joshua Tree Road Scenic Backway

Friday, February 27, 2009

Mojave National Preserve, California - Camping and Hiking

On Saturday we still had no idea where we were going or what we were going to do for Rob's Spring Break. The real dilemma was trying to find a new place to explore that wasn't going to be rainy or snowy all week. The weather was looking bad everywhere except extreme southwest Utah and unfortunately we've already covered a lot of territory there - not much new to see. By Sunday night we had finalized our plans to head even further south and west and we were off to Mojave National Preserve on Monday morning.

It was a rainy ride all the way south through Utah, even in St. George. But by the time we passed through Las Vegas the sun was starting to come out and an hour later as we approached Mojave National Preserve the weather was looking great. We made a good choice! We wanted a relaxing trip with sunshine and warmth and I think we picked the perfect location.

Mojave National Preserve is huge - only Yellowstone and Death Valley Parks are bigger in the continental United States. We only had time to cover the highlights of the park - this is definitely a place worthy of another trip.

Upon entering the park we drove through the world's largest Joshua Tree forest. These are amazing looking trees! They like things a little cooler so they were mostly located in the higher elevations of the park.


Joshua Tree - Mojave

Joshua Tree - Mojave

Me in the Joshua Tree forest - Mojave

The road turned to dirt (of course) as we climbed to almost 6,000 feet - one of the highest elevations in the park. We were thinking this would be a good place to camp, but the area suffered a massive fire a few years ago and didn't look particularly scenic. It was also much cooler at this elevation and the trees that weren't burned were mostly junipers. This reminded me too much of higher elevation Utah - this trip was supposed to be about warmth! We decided to move on. A passing shower and rainbow followed us for a while. Another good choice.


Rainbow near Mid Hills - Mojave

We made our way to the Hole-in-the Rock camping area and the scenery changed again from junipers to yuccas - a sign of warmth. The site was perfect and we enjoyed an evening of warm sunshine and good beer. It was beginning to feel more like a spring break!


Our tent at Hole-in-the-rock

Campsite at Hole-in-the-rock

Rob relaxing at Hole-in-the-rock

Yuccas

Rob setting up the tent at Hole-in-the-rock

I'm usually awake at the first hint of daylight and this has given me the chance to see some amazing desert sunrises. It's my favorite part of camping. Rob must have been really tried from working and the long drive because I took a long sun nap after sunrise until he finally emerged from the tent.


Sunrise at Hole-in-the-rock

Sunrise at Hole-in-the-rock

Sunrise at Hole-in-the-rock

The weather was perfect on Tuesday and after a brief stop a the Hole-in-the-rock visitor center we headed south through some of the lower elevations of the park. Too hot for the yuccas, the ground was mostly covered with creosote bush. It was in the 70s but the landscape made it appear much warmer. After looping back north for a bit we came to our destination for the day - Kelso Sand Dunes. The dunes rise up over 600 feet above the surrounding land and provide a stark contrast to the dark mountains surrounding the dunes. These dunes are particularly interesting because they "sing" when you get enough sand sliding down their slopes. It's a difficult noise to explain, but it sounds like a boom or a low flying airplane. Only a few dunes in the entire world do this. We spent hours running up and down the dunes, listening to strange sounds, and relaxing in the sunshine.


Kelso Sand Dunes

Me hiking to the dunes

Playing in Kelso Sand Dunes

Pretending I'm at the beach

Kelso Sand Dunes

Later that afternoon we found a great place to camp under some trees near Kelso Sand Dunes. Rob took a nap and I wandered around enjoying the desert scenery and a beautiful sunset. It looked a lot different than the red rock desert of Utah but it felt comfortable and welcoming. The skies were clear that night and the stars were amazing, except in the northeast sky where Las Vegas polluted the universe with an unbelievable amount of light.


Rob setting up camp near Kelso Sand Dunes

The view from our campsite near Kelso Dunes

Wild rhubarb

Kelso Sand Dunes

Sunset near Kelso Sand Dunes

I think the highlight of the trip was a simple morning walk through the desert near our campsite. There is no cryptobiotic crust to worry about but we still tried to minimize our impact by walking up washes. There was no trail so we just wandered and made little discoveries along the way. It was very peaceful.


me near a large Yucca

Desert tortoise shell minus the tortoise

Cholla cactus

We made a stop in Kelso to check out what used to be a bustling railroad depot on the Union Pacific Line. After walking through the museum of railroad history at Kelso we continued north to the volcanic cinder cones and lava flows. We spent a few hours walking around the lava flows and enjoying the scenery - a stark contrast between the black lava and the pale sand of the surrounding desert.


Kelso Depot

Kelso Depot

Volcanic cinder cone

Lava flow

Lava flow

We headed north to Baker, CA so Rob could get some ice cream (he said it was a sweet treat emergency). I also wanted to see the tacky, but must-see, Baker thermometer. This is a town that takes pride in being hot.


The Baker Thermometer

Finally we headed to Zzyzx Road (because that's a really strange name for a road!) and we wanted to see Soda Springs - a desert oasis next the Soda Lake, a dried up lake bed. The area used to be evangelical health resort but is now the location of California State University's Desert Studies Center. That's about as strange as the road's name. We found the place to be a little creepy - it still felt like an abandoned resort.


Soda Springs

Soda Springs

Soda Springs

We planned on camping in the Joshua Tree forest that we passed through on our first day but when we arrived we mutually decided that we needed to find somewhere else to camp. It was windy and cold and just didn't feel very comfortable. Since it was a long drive back to Salt Lake we decided we could make the drive more comfortable on Thursday by heading north for a couple of hours and camping in the Virgin River Gorge for the night. After the torturous drive through Las Vegas (a shock to the system after a few peaceful days in the desert) we made it to the Virgin River Gorge in Arizona and found it to be much more comfortable. The next morning we made a stop in Snow Canyon near St. George, UT to enjoy a little more sunshine and warmth before heading back to winter in Salt Lake.


Snow Canyon - Utah

Snow Canyon - Utah

Snow Canyon - Utah

Snow Canyon - Utah

Snow Canyon - Utah