Journeys: Swan Valley, Idaho - Total Solar Eclipse

I'd known for years that a total solar eclipse would cross the United States from Oregon to South Carolina on August 21, 2017. I began planning a trip and looking into camping and hotel options within the path of totality last November. Thinking that would be plenty of time to book a convenient trip, I was surprised to discover that people had already made their travel arrangements much sooner than me. Already, nearly a year out from the eclipse, camping and hotel options were limited, and expensive. Six months before the eclipse, camping reservations became available for National Forest Service sites. I was able to reserve a site at the Falls Campground in Swan Valley, Idaho, a place I'd camp previously for trips to the Tetons and Idaho Falls.


Camping at the Falls Campground near Swan Valley

As the date of the eclipse approached, I began to worry. The weather forecast was looking cloudy. Dire warnings about traffic jams, empty grocery stores, and sold out services such as gasoline filled the news. Despite the concerns, Jacob and I left Salt Lake City on Saturday morning with enough water and food to get us through any emergency. Highways signs warned of potential traffic chaos, but the miles kept ticking by and traffic continued to flow smoothly. We passed through Pocatello and Idaho Falls without any trouble, and arrived in Swan Valley without a single delay. We set up camp and enjoyed a beautiful evening, relieved that the drive had gone so well.

Setting up camp at the Falls Campground in Swan Valley

Lunar themed wine for dinner

Sunday was a day of waiting. Shawn arrived from Salt Lake City on Sunday morning and experienced no traffic problems, either. We swam in the Snake River and scoped out our eclipse viewing site at Fall Creek Falls. I napped in my hammock and fretted about clouds. I could not wait for Monday to arrive!

Fall Creek Falls - our selected eclipse viewing site

I woke up several times on Sunday night, looking at the sky and waiting for the stars to disappear behind a blanket of clouds that I was certain would ruin the eclipse. When I awoke on Monday morning, the band of clouds that I was worried about had already passed, sliding south into the distance and leaving a crystal clear sky behind. After breakfast, we made our way to the waterfall to watch the show. A small crowd had gathered, and the mood was very festive. Someone had crystals laid out on the blanket, presumably to catch the energies of the eclipse.

Eclipse viewing at Fall Creek Falls, Swan Valley, ID

The eclipse begins

The change in light was very subtle for most of the eclipse. We cracked open a bottle of 2011 Deschutes Abyss to welcome the darkness. It wasn't until a few minutes before totality that things got really interesting. The sunlight felt filtered and weak, and it became noticeably cooler. Shadow bands began to race across the ground, visible on the patches of white sand surrounding our viewing site.

Jacob watching the eclipse

Approaching totality

Darkening sky to our north and west

Welcoming the umbra with an Abyss

Moment before totality

Moments before totality, the daylight began to dim dramatically. It was like someone was turning a dimmer switch in the sky. Totality arrived, and it was one of the most memorable and stunning sights I have ever seen.

Total solar eclipse - Swan Valley, ID

The Snake River and Swan Valley, ID during totality

End of totality

Suddenly, a flash of light peeked out from behind the moon. It felt too soon for the sun to reappear, as if only a few seconds had passed since totality began. But as the surrounding landscape lit back up, it was clear that our two minutes of magic were over. We celebrated the return of light with champagne, and a swim in the creek above the waterfalls. Everyone jumped in their cars and headed home, while we stayed behind for another night to relax, celebrate, and swim in the Snake River one last time. Some traffic chaos did occur on Monday afternoon, but our drive home on Tuesday was smooth as could be.